"twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. so throw off the bowlines. sail away from the safe harbour. catch the trade winds in your sails. explore. dream. discover."

                                                                                -mark twain

Thursday, February 15, 2007

Mi Querido San Clemente

We’ve just returned to Buenos Aires, from San Clemente del Tuyu, our favorite beach town on the Atlantic coast. We spent a wonderful 2 weeks with our friends Carlos and Marisa at their campground. As the summer season started to end this past week, they had more time to take us fishing, although we never caught as many as we did that first time. Most of the time the weather was hot and humid and there were a few days with late afternoon thunderstorms (but don’t worry, our little tent held up just fine!).

The beach campgrounds here are not quite like the one’s at home. They are kind of like parking lots with trees, it’s actually quite nice. Families set up brightly colored tents, string up clothes lines to hang towels and bathing suits on and sit listening to the radio or playing cards and drinking mate. Kids run around playing soccer or sword fighting with sticks. There are no campfires, but there are communal bar-b-ques where people gather in the evenings to socialize and cook dinner. Speaking of bar-b-ques, under the watchful eye of Carlos, Martin became an accomplished “asador” (the man who mans the grill) and cooked us some excellent meat one night.

The city of San Clemente del Tuyu is a lot like our San Clemente at home. It is a laid back little town, and although it’s main industry is summer tourism, the people who work and live there have known each other for years. Like we mentioned in the last post, the main street is full of shops and restaurants (including a great little place that made super-delicious home-made pasta – we went 4 times!), and at night, it has a strange carnival-like atmosphere. They close the streets to car traffic, and the restaurants expand their tables into the street to accommodate the massive amount of people. Each block has a little lot with a few shady-looking carnival rides and games, with flashing lights and music. People dressed in suits of various children’s characters walk around (we saw Sponge Bob, Spider Man, Barney and an unidentified pig wearing a vest). The popcorn and hot-dog vendors of the beach turn into cotton candy and candy apple vendors, and the stores sell cans of foam for kids to spray at each other. The fire-department gives rides on its truck (in order to make a little extra money for their station) and there is a bus decorated with Christmas lights to look like a pirate ship. Although it was a little strange, it was fun to walk around.

We did spend one day at another beach town, Pinamar, a 2 hour bus-ride away. It was a much more up-scale area than San Clemente del Tuyu. It had lots of beach clubs with bars and cabanas, and we spent the day lying in the sun and drinking gancia (a local alcohol they mix with soda and lemon). Although the fancy sea-food restaurant was nice (so nice we nearly missed our bus home) we still preferred to be with Carlos and Marisa. They are excellent cooks, and we enjoyed every meal and learned a lot from them. We not only cooked on the parrilla, but also in their cast-iron paella pan (made from old farm-equipment) and their adobe oven. But mostly, we enjoyed their wonderful hospitality, and friendship.




Monday, February 5, 2007

Bienvenidos a San Clemente!

We are here in San Clemente del Tuyu, San Clemente, CA´s sister city, enjoying the summer life.

I think we have already lost count of the number of days we have been here, it really is a dog´s life. We are staying with a friend of my families who run a couple of campgrounds very close to the beach. Since this is their busiest time of the year, the campgrounds are packed with people from Buenos Aires. So, like everyone else, we spend a lot of time down at the beach.

To get here we took a 4 hour ride on a bus from Buenos Aires, which was 100 times more comfortable than a plane, the seats fully recline and even my long legs fit! Our friend Marisa picked us up from the bus station and took us to their home on the campgounds where we got to meet their 2 dogs - Inge and Bikal (named after the deepest lake in the world, found in Russia), a mother and son German Shepards. We pitched our tent close to their house and headed for the beach.

The beach here is very different from the beaches in San Clemente (CA). Since it is near where the large Rio de la Plata meets the ocean, a lot of sand is deposited onto the beach. This makes for a long walk past dunes to get to the water. This however, does not deter people from packing the beach like sardines. Tents, umbrellas, vendors and dogs are everywhere. The beach is also very long and continuous, quads are allowed on the beach, as well as horses and 4-wheel drive trucks. Past the crowds are where people ride their quads and take their trucks for the day.

A couple of days after we arrived, Carlos and Marisa had time to spend the afternoon with us at the beach. We loaded up their 1947 US Army issue Jeep with the dogs, fishing nets and mate, and headed for the beach. Their childhood friend Carmen also owns an old Jeep like theirs and has another of Inge´s puppies. The video is of our ride down towards the beach...

(it´s coming... internet is super slow here)

Down at the beach we went swimming and fishing. The dogs love to swim, and I mean, love to swim. Carlos, Carmen´s son Herman and I swam out more than 100 yards past the breaking waves and the dogs not only went with us, but wanted to keep on going! Throughout the afternoon, we caught somewhere near 25 fish in our 2 nets which Marisa cooked for dinner that night - delicious!!!




The actual town of San Clemente del Tuyu is a lot like what San Clemente, CA must have been like many years ago. Most of the streets are not paved, just sand, there is one main street (Calle 1) of restaurants and shops selling beach toys. People just wander around in their swimsuits all day, everyday. There is also a small pier which is mostly used for fishing.

Our favorite parts of the day are our afternoon naps on the beach and dinners with Carlos and Marisa and their friends. A couple of nights ago Carlos made another asado, check this puppy out!

We really are having a great time here in our sister city on the other side of the world. We hope all is well at home and wish everyone of you could be down here enjoying this with us!